Today’s post will give you some idea of what Spring’s fashion trends are…and attempt to translate some of these looks into usable wardrobe suggestions.
GQ did a wonderful spread featuring Nicholas Hoult…who was introduced to the US in X-Men: First Class. Great job GQ! We think this pictorial was terrific and have chosen it to assist in translating this season’s fashion looks into tips today’s professional can wear!
Shiny suits! A simply-tailored sharkskin suit will set you apart from your brethren and provide a very hip addition to your wardrobe. Charcoal is the easiest color to add…but navy, and “postman blue” are worth considering for those a little more adventuresome!
Charcoal Sharkskin Suit
Soft, natural shoulders are the norm this season in the US. In Europe, a more structured, roped shoulder will be seen…think James Bond’s Skyfall wardrobe…but in the US, natural shoulders with very light padding is what you should be looking for.
Natural vs. Capped Shoulders…note the more pronounced definition of Bond’s shoulders
History is ready to repeat itself, and the higher button stance of the past 5-10 years will fade to a lower button stance…don’t be afraid to ask your custom tailor for a one-button single-breasted garment…with a lower or longer “gorge”.
GQ outfitted Nicholas Hoult in a 1 button suit with a lower gorge
Double breasted suits will begin to gain traction…and with the DB, comes the more structured shoulder…note the definition around our DB model’s shoulders…called “rope”. Your custom tailor can assist you in deciding if you need a “capped”, “slight roped”, or “roped” shoulder to achieve the look you desire…if you jump to a double breasted this season!
Trim, form-fitting Double Breasted…note well-defined, squared shoulders
Slim pants continue to be the norm. Most of my customers want a slimmer pant profile…but still want comfort. Your custom tailor will work with your shoe size, and develop a pant pattern that provides enough width at the bottom to complement your shoe size, while trimming up your leg…but leaving enough room at the knee for comfort! Here is how a young, trim actor- Nicholas Hoult- pulls off today’s trim pant look! Our goal is to replicate this look…with just a little comfort added!
Slimmer pants than most of my customers would wear!
Collars are interesting…classically, one would expect all collars to mirror the size of this season’s lapels (3-3 1/8″). For most guys, this translates into a medium spread collar approximately 2 3/4″ in point length. Having said that, many guys still prefer a wider or Italian spread collar with a slighter larger know. Think Ryan Seacrest and American Idol…Ryan seems to favor the wider spread.
Ryan looks good either way…larger or smaller collar
My personal choice is to go with a slightly smaller collar, one that better matches the size of my lapels (3 1/8″ is my preference…smaller…but not going out of style anytime soon!). Ryan Seacrest, above, is more often seen this season with a wider spread collar like the one on the left, featured with a fuller know…but with a smaller lapel jacket. Occasionally…like in the photo on the right, Ryan can be seen with a smaller collared shirt and a tie having a smaller knot.
Regards,
Vinnie Rua- Founder, Christopher’s Custom
P.S. Watch for my posts about our upcoming involvement with the Final Four in Atlanta. Here is a quick link: